LAST NIGHT IN CAMBODIA: A Vietnamese dinner with Toe

Part 1: Jumping from the virtual world

So it was our last night in Phnom Penh.

And what could be a better way of spending our final night than having our last dinner with a fellow blogger, Toe. Yes, I have mentioned her here quite a few times ever since we started this Indochina adventure. But way before I started visiting and commenting in her blog, I used to be a frequent lurker since I kinda see myself traveling in that part of the world one day. And knowing that she is a Filipino working there helped me a lot, particularly in getting a first glimpse of how it is living there. But little did I know that I will one day meet her in person.

I did tell her that we will travel via Phnom Penh going to Ho Chi Minh City. But I didn’t quite expect that she would actually invite us to meet her. Honestly, I was flattered. But I was hesitant too. I haven’t actually met someone from the virtual world and the idea of actually meeting someone from that world is still a strange idea to me. No, don’t get me wrong, I am ecstatic to meet Toe I just don’t know if she would be thrilled to meet me. I just hate disappointing people especially those who have prior notion of me (physically, mentally, spiritually). I might not be the person they thought I would be. And that’s a real spank on the ass, to tell you the truth.

The thing about blogging is that, people read your thoughts without judgment, just an honest-to-goodness curiosity that other people may really find interesting or useful for them. What I am trying to say is that, there are no expectations. This is because at the back our minds, we never really entertain the idea that one day, we will actually see these people in the flesh and that we have to make a solid, good impression on them. Okay, this is just me and my thoughts. I don’t know about you, but I have always looked at blogging not merely as an outlet but also as an extension of myself. And being at that, you somehow expose yourself to a certain "risk" that the people you know in real life will read your thoughts and haunt you back. A vulnerable stage.

As an apathetic blog reader, you merely rely on what kind of information is being fed to you, and that’s where the clout of the blogger comes in. You form an image on the bases of that. And it sticks to you, no matter how shallow they maybe.

So anyhow, I have gotten over this ‘groundless anxiety’ and decided to embark on my first blogger eyeball (EB). Toe actually wrote a very engaging entry on our first meeting in her blog.

Part 2: Meeting Toe

Like any first meeting, I had my own thoughts on what Toe would actually look like in person. This is crazy but I was in a real deep thought that night, sitting at the corner of the guesthouse's lobby while waiting for her to arrive. Oki was reading a magazine at the other end of the seat looking so cool about it. Between the two of us, she handles this kind of situation more unfussy. She’s good with people (conversing most especially).

I was in an awe thinking how the hell am I going to introduce myself and how to reassure her that I am not a bad person. I really have the weirdest thoughts when I am anxious. I feel really edgy meeting people on the first day because this is where “first impressions” are formed and usually, people get the wrong impression of me during the first meeting. This is precisely the reason why I am not fond of EBs and blind dates. Also, I am really shy and I am not a very sociable person. But I get over that once I know the person really well. Most of my close friends are those that I didn’t get along (so) well during our first meetings. They usually have the wrong impressions of me and vice versa.

Toe arrived in a cozy-looking Hyundai Tucson. She was wearing a skirt and a blouse and she had this little, cute clip on her hair. As I approached her, she belted from the window of her car something like: “Rayts!?” The greeting was so warm that it really put me to an ease.

She looked exactly like what I have imagined. Pretty much close. Chinita-looking, fair skin, and really pretty. Her fair skin made me look like a real nog-nog having a sunburnt skin due to our travels in Siem Reap the previous days. Amputi ni Toe nagmukha tuloy akong Kirara sa kaitiman! And may I just say she’s prettier than Bea Lucero! No wonder her honey is so patay na patay to her! Well, I am biased as I have special affinity for Chinese-looking people.

Part 3: A Vietnamese dinner

Toe drove us to a Vietnamese Hole-in-Wall resto, I believe it’s their favorite restaurant. The place was not crowded which was good and I for once, felt I was already in Vietnam having those skinny Vietnamese waitress clad in ao dai greeting us.

Digging from Toe’s previous blog entry, this Vietnamese resto is called An Nam which I don’t know the meaning of. Talking about “ideas and concepts that jumped out from the virtual world” I found it odd that we’re actually dramatizing a somewhat scene from Toe’s entry. We often read about this particular resto and the food there in her blog entries.

Toe ordered ca kho me, a fat fish in caramel and tamarind which we savored in all its goodness! It was really, really rich in flavor. We also had chicken pho complete with lemon, herbs, and bean sprouts; and of course spring rolls! To top it all, we had Vietnamese coffee with milk which was wickedly bitter and sweet. Oki loved the food and the coffee that we tried finding them again when we were in Vietnam. We had the ca phe sua da but we couldn’t find any ca kho me simply because we don’t know how to say it.

Here are some photos. Not really a top notch. I am not as good as Ferdz when it comes to food photography. I didn't use a flash and my hands were shaking. :-(

I am basically a chicken and noodle lover so much so that I enjoyed this chicken pho. Pho 24, the one in Rockwell, has perhaps the best chicken pho, next to the authentic one I had in Vietnam.

Ca kho me, a fat fish in caramel and tamarind. Toe's favorite. Our favorites.

Spring rolls! We ordered spring rolls in Phoa Hoa and the taste and the coating were not the same. Even the texture and the presentation.

Rice and herbs. I love their sticky rice and their fresh garnishing.

Toe paid our bill, which made me sank to my seat. Oki and I promised a payback dinner when she comes back in the country. :-D

After making our stomach happy, Toe gave us a ride in her Hyundai Tucson with a Bon Jovi music at the background, which was the coolest. She gave us a night tour and brief background of Phnom Penh. She and Oki were talking most of the time while we were having the tour. I enjoyed looking at the city which was totally different at night having all those colorful lights and sights.

Thank you Toe for this wonderful experience. :-)

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SILVER PAGODA: A shimmering delight at the heart of the city

Still part of the Royal Palace is the Silver Pagoda which is another compound located at the north side, separated by a confined walkway. The site is actually referred to in Khmer as Wat Preah Keo Morokat (The Temple of the Emerald Buddha) but was commonly called as the “Silver Pagoda” due to the silver floor tiles that are ornately adorned in the temple building.

Sideview of the Wat Preah Keo with its well decorated false doors.

The compound offers another majestic experience starting from the beautiful landscape, the colorful garden, and the stunning, unique architecture of the temples, library, stupas, shrines, monuments, open halls, and galleries.

Beautiful orchids at the garden, with the shrine housing the statue of King Norodom at the back.

As we found our way to the compound, we found the primary building, the Wat Preah Keo which is also the royal temple. It houses many of the national treasures including gold and jeweled Buddha statues. Entering the temple we have to leave our shoes and slippers as a sign of respect. This time, I went inside and decided to linger for awhile. I assumed that it was forbidden to take photos inside so I didn’t bother taking some snapshots. I will just try to describe it. Hopefully you'll imagine me there.

The place is glimmering with gold, silver and jeweled displays. The floor is fully furnished with a red carpet that I decided to sit and then kneel (trying to mimic what the others were doing). It was a bit cold inside. It smelt of burning incense, mix of people's perfume and that distinct sweet, strange smell that I could not figure what. But I realized, I always smell it everytime I went inside the temples in Cambodia.

I saw some tourists bringing offers and praying to the big Buddha at the center. They call it “Buddha Maitreya” or Buddha of the Future. The 90-kg golden standing Buddha is covered with 2,086 diamonds including a 25 carat diamond in its crown and a 20 carat diamond entrenched in the chest. (I researched the stats here as I have no idea then how many they were). I literally fell on my knee just by looking at it. A shimmering delight. I’ve never seen such a shining beauty. I've seen the huge Golden Buddha in Bangkok, but this I think is far more beautiful.

I tried my luck and went over the center and knelt. I prayed too. No seriously, I did. I don't know why but the place was enticing. I prayed something like... “Dear Emerald Buddha, I don’t believe in you but I respect you like any belief or religion for that matter so please be kind enough to grant my wish…” Since I didn’t bring anything (flowers, fruits, etc) for my offering, I just dropped some Khmer money into the box.

Other displays include relics of Buddha, small gold and silver stupas, a collection of gifts, and contributions and gifts from other nobles and royalties.

This is the stupa built in memory of Princess Kantha Bopha, the daughter of former King Sihanouk who died at the age of four due to leukemia. This is one of the newest additions to the compound built only in the 60s. At the back is the Dhammasala.

After that, we toured around the compound and were mesmerized by the large stupas that sprang here and there. In plain sight, I found myself standing in front of the Stupa of Princess Kantha Bopha. Built only in 1960, this serves as a memorial sanctuary of the beloved daughter of the former King Sihanouk who died in1952 at the age of four due to leukemia.

Just behind this stupa is the Dhammasala, an open hall used for Buddhist monks to recite texts and also as a royal reception area.

We also saw the Stupa of King Ang Doung, which contains the ashes of the King Ang Doung (1845-1860), founder of the current dynasty and the great-great-great grandfather of King Sihamoni.

This is the stupa for King Ang Doung.

At the back of the main temple, we found the miniature model of the Angkor Wat. It was laid on a huge platform surrounded by a pond full of Japanese koi.

At the back of the main temple with the miniature Angkor Wat model at the platform.

Surrounding the platform are these huge Japanese koi.

Moving on, we found various souvenir shops selling all sorts of items including photocopied books on the historical sites in Cambodia and of course, the very cheap Lonely Planet books.

Every tourist site in Cambodia has souvenir shop, exactly like this one. With two large elephants guarding the door and a smaller one at the left (not seen).

One of the great treasures I take home with me are the warmth and friendliness of the Khmer people. They like to smile a lot. This little girl is really cute. The woman on the right could be her mom or grandma. I found them smiling at me while I was heading for the Preah Expo. The kiddo gave me a curious look :-)

At the tail end is the Preah Sihamoni’s Expo which exhibits the story of King Norodom Sihamoni including his childhood and how he became the king after his father Norodom Sihanouk. He was a cultural ambassador and a classical dance instructor.

Entrance of the Preah Sihamoni's Expo with two mythical guards in front and a bas relief on the right patterned from the original bas relief in Angkor Wat.

A woman monk looking through the photo exhibit of the King.

Inside the Preah Expo featuring ceramic dolls re-enacting a royal ritual.

After going through the winding and maze-like route of the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda, Oki and I went out of the compound, terribly exhausted but fulfilled. This was our last day in Cambodia and we were happy at how we came to fulfill our itinerary. We still have a lot of time to still go around the city but we opted to go back to our guesthouse and take enough rest.

At night we have to meet Toe over dinner. We don't know where and how but we were already agitated by the idea.

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Cambodia’s Royal Palace: Something Majestic!

“Once in a while I will witness a majestic place and say my ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ and remember it so well when I am old that once again I will travel through time and reminisce!”

~ Rayts talking to herself (after witnessing something 'majestic')~

Like a true kingdom, every activity in Phnom Penh circles around its Royal Palace, a complex of buildings which to this day, serves as the Cambodian home of King Norodom Sihamoni and former King Norodom Sihanouk. The royal palace, known in Khmer as Preah Barom Reachea Vaeng Chaktomuk was constructed over a century ago also to serve as a venue for the performance of court ceremonies and rituals and as a symbol of the Kingdom itself. The Royal Palace is located between Streets 240 and 18.

On our way to the gate of the Royal Palace at around one in the afternoon.

The lone guard in front of the palace.

We finished visiting the National Museum at around 1:00 pm, the Royal Palace would not be open until 2:00pm so we opted to walk the few miles. It was a bit windy but the heat was getting to us. We met a few tourists who were already at the gate of the palace, waiting for it to open. In Cambodia, where there are tourists, there are vendors. And they come in all ages and sorts.

While waiting, we’ve been passed by so many vendors selling hammocks, postcards, food, drinks, etc. Oki even befriended one of the young vendors. Meanwhile, I met two Singaporean women who were also waiting for the palace to open. They came to Phnom Penh on official business but stayed for more days to tour around the capital city.

The circuitous tale of the tourists and the vendors. "In Cambodia, where there are tourists, there are vendors".

At exactly 2pm, the gate of the palace opened and immediately we headed for the queue to get our entrance tickets. We paid $6.50 each (inclusive of camera or video cam). The lady at the booth repeated to me the amount (which was said in thick accent that I didn’t quite understand), she smiled and gave me two brochures about the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda.

The famous Chanchhaya Pavillon. This shot was taken in the morning, thus the beautiful sky. We've passed by this route three times. At night, the place is gorgeous! See previous post.

After passing through the narrow path on our way to the main complex, everything went on smoothly. Inside the brochures are route guides and history of the site. Some of the visitors brought tourist guides with them. Oki and I just went on with the flow of the people (we didn’t even follow the route).

Passing by a narrow path we were met by a bunch of bright yellow chrysanthemum all the way to the main complex. I was astounded by the beauty of the place. “Wow. This palace rocks!” Not only are the architecture amazing, the landscape is like a cutout from coffeetable books. The palace is surrounded by gardens with tropical flowers and plants. Really beautiful. Suddenly, I felt like I was brought into another place.

The first structure we came upon was the Pochani Pavillon. It is an open hall originally constructed as a classical dance theater. The pavilion, built in 1912, is currently used for Royal receptions and meetings. We watched people ascend into its wide and shiny stairs. There were monks everywhere. They suit the place so well especially with their tangerine robes. When we got to the top, we have to leave our slippers to enter.

The Pochani Pavillon with its beautiful garden.

Monks ascending the stairs, going inside the Pochani Pavillon.

At the top you'll find this sign: "Please shoes leave here"

Then there’s the Throne Hall, the primary audience hall of the King, used for coronations and diplomatic and other official meetings. This is said to be the second to be built in the complex. The first was built from wood under King Norodom. The present building was constructed in 1917 and inaugurated by King Sisowath in 1919. I had the nicest time taking photos of this particular structure. To me, it looks like a huge boat with all the flags playing with the wind.

The beautiful and majestic Throne Hall.

Like I said, monks were everywhere. Their robes stood out amongst the crowd and they always look good side by side the palace. Most of the monks we met were really friendly to us and most of them are like us, travelers. They were very kind to take photos with us.

Monks going to the Pochani Pavillon.

Could be them again? This time overlooking the Hor Samrith Phimean (Bronze Palace). This structure was built in 1917 as a repository for the royal regalia and attributes.

One interesting structure is the Napoleon III Pavilion. From afar, it looked so out of place. A European-style doll house amid the grand and distinctly Khmer-style buildings. The pavilion was actually the first permanent structure on the site of the Royal Palace. It was built for Empress Eugenie of France, the wife of Napoleon III, which served as the venue for the inauguration of the Suez Canal. It is built entirely from iron. In 1876 Emperor Napoleon III handed over the building to King Norodom of Cambodia as a gift. There is a royal emblem somewhere in the building. A letter “N” emblazed on the doors, which to no avail need not be altered. N = Napoleon; N = Norodom.

The out of place, Napoleon III Pavillon.

The Royal Palace is a majestic place and part of that is due to its beautiful landscape. Take the Damnak Chan for example. They have these beautiful-looking, miniature trees that really fascinated me. Damnak Chan currently houses the administrative offices of the Royal Palace and was originally constructed in 1953 for the High Council of the Throne. Damnak Chan displays a mix of Khmer and Western architectural styles.

Chrysanthemums surrounding the Pochani Pavillon.

Damnak Chan at the background with its famous pruned tree.

...up next is the Silver Pagoda (still part of the Royal Palace Complex) :-D

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National Museum: Cambodia's repository of cultural wealth

Museum serves as a memory bank of every nation.

It gives us a sense of history, a chance to go back and study what has been and why we, as a people, behave in a society we current live in. It also shows how one country is able to save and preserve that “sense of history”. I am sure no elaboration is needed. All of us know the importance of a national museum. And so are the Khmers.

Right after Wat Phnom, Oki and I had our lunch at Sarady restaurant, just adjacent the temple. We had no time to look for other restaurant to eat because I was already about to die of hunger. I had a huge glass of shake (I think it was lychee or soursop) and a plate of spicy chicken stir fry with rice (which I have been ordering and eating since I set foot in Cambodia).

Spicy chicken stir fry with swamp cabbage (kangkong) and a huge glass of shake courtesy of Sarady's. I love their chicken stir fry! One plate is good for two servings that I wasn't able to finish it.

Facade of Cambodia's National Museum. I was getting the shot from the other street on our way to the UNESCO office, which is almost adjacent to the Royal Palace.

After lunch, our rickshaw driver headed for the National Museum, a few walks away from the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda and the Sisowath Quay (riverfront). The structure known as the “red museum” is distinguishable from afar due to its reddish terracotta-roofed structure of traditional Cambodian design.

Cambodia’s National Museum was designed by George Groslier and the Ecole des Arts Cambodgiens. It was built in 1917 in traditional Khmer style (with French influence, of course) and was inaugurated in 1920 by King Sisowat himself. It houses the world's foremost collection of ancient Khmer archeological, religious, and artistic artifacts from the 4th to the 13th centuries. Inside the museum are over 5000 pieces of important artifacts and is the repository of the Kingdom's cultural wealth.

Front gate of the museum.

I am loving the sunstreaks here! :-D

Making the lion guard larger than life and the museum taller than usual.

Unfortunately, as we were about to pay our $2 entrance, we were informed that photography is forbidden inside the museum. We got there along with the other "eager" tourists who carried along with them their bulky DSLRs and got frustrated at the information booth. We weren't suprised at all. We knew there was a catch.

Well, actually it’s not really forbidden, because you could pay extra $3 for the photo op, which I went against. One, I hate paying and paying extra for that matter. Two, if they ask me to pay extra $3 and the proceed will go the maintenance of the museum, well and good but other than that, I wouldn’t pay. Or they could just ask $5 for the entrance fee. I am (quite) sure that every tourist who goes inside has a camera with them. Well, at least 80% chance that I am right and the rest 20% of the populace was just there for the viewing pleasure.

Ahh, I just love the designs and architecture of the Khmer. Fascinating to look out, lovely in my eyes.

Even the landscape is astonishing.

The place is well maintained. And because I stayed a bit long taking photos of the building outside, I had the chance to see and meet the gardener of the museum.

Anyway, I told the lady at the front that I won’t be taking photos but I need to bring my camera with me (cuz there is no way that I will leave it at the front desk). Good thing they allowed me, otherwise, I will not go inside.

I just enjoyed the long and winding tour inside the museum. One thing about not using your camera while touring is that, I get to enjoy looking at every artifact and piece of art with great enthusiam without minding the time or without being pressured if I have gotten enough photos. It also helped that we've visited the Angkor Wat in Siem Reap before we headed to the museum because I get to appreciate the displays a lot more (and the stories behind them).

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Wat Phnom: A temple on top of a hill

Located at the intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Boulevard of Phnom Penh, we found a temple rested on top of a hill. This is Wat Phnom (literally means “hill temple”) is considered as one of the most important temples at the heart of Phnom Penh.

The establishment of this temple has its beginnings tied closely with the history of Phnom Penh. According to the legend (as re-told to us by the ever accommodating Toe during our night tour), in 1372 Daun Chi Penh, a wealthy widow more known in the history as “Lady Penh” (got the connection?) discovered four Buddha statues in a koki tree floating on the Mekong river. In 1372 she built an artificial hill and a placed a shrine on top to house some precious artifacts. On that artificial hill (phnom), she built a small temple (wat) at what is now the site of Wat Phnom. In 1434, King Ponhea Yat came and constructed the city which he gave the name Phnom Penh ("Hill of Penh").

There have been many additions to the original shrines over the centuries. The site has also undergone various restorations and reconstructions the latest was in 1926. In fact, when we got to the temple, there were still some restorations and reconstructions going on. We saw some new stupas being rebuilt at the back. Some of the sheds were also being repainted.

Inside one of the large stupas, located at the front contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat, one of the kings of the Khmer Empire from 1421 to 1462 who ordered the construction of six Buddhist monasteries around Phnom Penh.

Wat Phnom is now the center of various activities in the Phnom Penh like the Cambodian New Year (Chaul Chnam Thmey) and the Ancestor’s Day (Pchum Benh), which according to Toe "are moveable holidays." The place is visited and flocked by visitors and tourists from all over the place and a favorite hangout of faithful trekkers, fortune tellers, vendors, and motodups (motorcycle taxi driver). *Thanks Toe for the corrections and info*

The main entrance going up to the temple is via this grand eastern staircase, which is guarded by lions and naga (snake) balustrades. We paid $1 each for the entrance, not bad for such a fancy-looking temple on the hill (27-meter high).

On top (after traversing the staircase) you'll be greeted by this beautiful structure, the main tempe. On each side are two lion guards. At 27 metres above sea level, it is the highest point in the area. The huge clock, illuminated at night, found on the base of the hill at the southern side has become one of Phnom Penh's night-time landmarks.

Inside the temple are worshipers and petitioners offering flowers, food, candles, incence, etc. Many people come here to pray for good luck and success in whatever endeavors they have in life i.e., school exams or business affairs.

One of the beautiful sheds being repainted located at the front, left of the temple.

When a visitor's wish is granted, he or she returns to the temple to make the (promised) offering in the form of garland of jasmine flowers or bananas, of which the spirits are said to be especially fond of.

There is an altar for Yeay Penh ("grandmother Penh") between the stupa and the Vihear. People from the city consider her as a powerful protective spirit of the town and they will offer for her and request her help for any major decisions.

One of the stupas is undergoing restoration. The large stupa contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat (1405-1476) and his royal family. Inside the stupa, there is a Buddha statue from the Angkorean period.

At the foot of the temple hill, we found monkeys climbing on a huge tree. Some are scattered on the grass and some are being fed by children and families. To feed the monkeys, one has to buy a bunch of bananas or this particular plant ( i don't know what it is called) which can be bought from vendors around the area.

One of the monkeys having a fun time eating.

Although this temple is famous for 'wishers' I never had the chance to wish for anything. I chose not to. My reason was, well I am not a worshiper of Buddha so he might not grant my wish (lame huh?). Two, everything in the area looked phony to me. Everything looks too commercial. Everything is for sale (including the offerings) and vendors were taking advantage of selling whatever they can sell especially the I-will-make-a-wish-and-I-will-buy-an-offering-in-exchange thingie that I couldn't choke at all. I termed it as "a temple that has gone commercial".

The weather was (so) hot that time we visited so much so that I got dizzy going up and down the hill. Oki and I had a separate route going through the temple (as I wanted to take as many photos as I could) and we just agreed to meet at the foot of the hill where the monkeys were being fed by kids.

By the time I got here, I wanted to vomit due to heat exhaustion and hunger. My stomach was begging for food (and it was way passed lunch time). I had fun watching the monkeys though that I decided to sit on the grass and take photos. I wanted to feed them but I don't like buying them bananas either so I just sat there and watched (like a beggar with a camera, I looked really wasted).

According to Tourism of Cambodia:

"Wat Phnom is the only attraction in Phnom Penh that is in danger of turning into a circus. Beggars, street urchins, women selling drinks and children selling birds in cages (you pay to set the bird free locals claim the birds are trained to return to their cage afterwards) pester everyone who turns up to slog the 27m to the summit. Fortunately its' all high-spirited stuff, and it's difficult to be annoyed by the vendors, who after all, are only trying to make a living out of it."

Phnom Penh: Independence Monument and Riverfront

“Our Similarities bring us to a common ground;
Our Differences allow us to be fascinated by each other.”

~Tom Robbins~

Two major tourist attractions in Phnom Penh are the Independence Monument (Vimean Ekareach) located at the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk Boulevards, and the Riverfront road in Sisowath Quay which stretches from the Sothearos Street where the Royal Palace is all the way to Street 104 near Wat Phnom.

As a Filipino traveling in a foreign country like Cambodia, I could not help but compare these two attractions with the ones that we have here in the Philippines, Luneta and Baywalk.

Independence Monument and Rizal Park

Check this amazing 20-meter tall, red-stone structure designed by Cambodian modern architect, Vann Molyvann.

Strategically located at the intersection of Norodom Blvd and Sihanouk Blvd in the capital city of Cambodia to constantly remind its people the freedom they have achieved from France.

Surrounding the monument are decorations (banderitas) that stretch along the intersection of the Boulevards. The city celebrates His Majesty's birthday.

Both are located in the hearts of the cities of Manila and Phnom Penh, thus significant in the lives of their people.

While the monument in Rizal Park is shaped like a small moon (lunette) thus the named Luneta, the Independence Monument of the Cambodians is a lotus-shaped stupa which is distinctive among its architectural designs as found in Angkor Wat and other Khmer historical sites. Both structures were plunked strategically for what they stand for. For the Filipinos, the Luneta serves a historical site of some of the most significant moments in the Philippine history like the execution of Dr. José Rizal, the Declaration of Philippine Independence from American rule, and the holdings of political rallies during the Marcos regime and EDSA.

For the Cambodians, the Independence Monument signifies its freedom from France. It was first built in 1958 and is now the site of colorful celebrations and services during holidays such as Independence Day and Constitution Day. Unlike the Luneta, which was a work of a Swiss sculptor Richard Kissling, the Independence Monument was designed by Cambodian modern architect, Vann Molyvann.

When we were in Cambodia, we passed by this monument three times. The first time was during our first night in Cambodia wherein we opted to hang out at the Sisowath Quay to eat, on our second day on our way to visit the Royal Palace, and on our last night when Toe decided to give us a brief night tour of the city. So on both occasions, we saw it during its shining moment at night and its glorious state during the day.

Toe said that this monument plays a significant role among Cambodians during national celebrations. True enough, the monument was well decorated and well lit when we were there. This is because the city was celebrating His Majesty’s birthday.

The Riverfront and Baywalk

Vendors walking along the stretch of the riverfront in Sisowath Quay.

Spotting the Philippine flag (beside Poland's). The flags, I noticed, were arranged alphabetically.

Taken from the back of the rickshaw we were riding on our way to the Wat Phnom located in the intersection of Norodom Blvd and Street 96.

A vista of picnickers taking their lunch under a big, shady tree overlooking the river.

A closer look at some of the locals taking their lunch. :-)

A girl strolling along the grassy area of the park. Not really minding the heat, is she?

If you’ve been to Baywalk, Manila’s famous promenade along the stretch of Roxas Boulevard which is known for its stunning sunsets, then strolling along Phnom Penh’s Riverfront in Sisowath Quay will no longer feel strange. I walked on both roads and I can tell you, except for some slight and obvious differences like the signs, street names, and locals talking in Khmer, everything felt similar. Looking at the locals made me feel more homey than the usual.

The first thing I noticed when we got there were the different flags stretched along the riverfront. It was by instinct that I immediately looked for the Philippine flag. I sat underneath its pole while feeling the cold wind coming from the river and munching my favorite Cambodian mango. Yeba!

Some of Phnom Penh's most important cultural sites as well as dozens of pubs, restaurants and shops are located in this picturesque park-lined riverfront overlooking Chaktomuk the point of confluence of three rivers: Tonle Sap, Mekong, and Bassac Rivers.

Not faraway from where we stood was the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda and the National Museum which were all clustered together between Streets 178 and 240. The famous Cambodian promenade also harbors several restaurants and high-quality boutiques and is known for its 'Art Street' connecting several and interesting little art galleries and silk shops. The riverfront also rewards a spectacular sunrise sightseeing for early risers.