CALERUEGA: The Transfiguration Chapel

I’ve known and heard of the place way before I even had the chance to actually be there. I had little knowledge of the place and what actually it is. I had an officemate who’s been a frequent to this place and I asked him: What is there to see? He would say: A lovely chapel. It’s beautiful there!

A few weeks ago, I had the chance to actually be there and experience the place. Located in Brgy. Kaylaway, Batulao in Nasugbu, Batangas you’ll find Caleruega-- “the seedbed of preachers and the cornerstone of spiritual inspiration”.

People who seek silence, solitude, and harmony with nature find them here in Caleruega. That kills me. How could I miss such a place?

To end such disgruntling deprivation, Charl, Tet and I went there a few weeks ago. According to the brochure that was handed to us after we paid 30 pesos (each) for the entrance, “Caleruega is a house of prayer and renewal.” It is also a venue for various group activities like retreats, renewal workshop, youth camps, seminars, art, music, and more.

Being a big fan of churches (architecture-wise), our obvious stop was the Transfiguration Chapel, a very famous landmark in Caleruega.

The façade of the chapel is an actual reproduction of the original chapel in Caleruega, Spain. The whole structure breeds symbolism and meanings which were all based in the Holy Scripture.

The chapel highlighting its hut-shaped roof is in remembrance of the temporary sheds that the apostles wanted to build for Jesus, Moses, and Elijah during the transfiguration.

Façade of the chapel showing the seal of the Dominican Province of the Philippines aS depicted in stained glass in the upper portion.

At the back of the administrative building, this serves as the main entrance going to the other attractions of the place i.e., garden, koi pond, hanging bridge, etc.

Visitors coming and going into Caleruega.

Inside the chapel is the main altar featuring the stained glass that depicts the Transfiguration of Jesus as witnessed by Peter, John, and Luke.

Another transfiguration image located at the facade of the chapel.

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This ship is taking me far away

Far away from the memories

Of the people who care if I live or die

Starlight, I will be chasing the starlight

Until the end of my life

I don't know if it's worth it anymore.

~Muse's Starlight~

Pimai Historical Park: Angkor Wat’s Little Cousin

Located in the Northeastern Province of Nakhon Ratchasima and less than two kilometers away from Sai Ngam, lies the Pimai Historical Park, home to one of Thailand’s finest surviving Khmer Temple complexes, very much like Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.

[Some quick facts:]

Built during: end of the 11th century (reign of King Suriyaworaman I)
Size: rectangular in shape (565m wide and 1,030m long)
Architectural style: Baphuon
Religious sect: Hindu-Mahayana Buddist temple
Features: ornately carved sandstone and laterite structures
Special characteristic: the sanctuary is facing south while the others face east

Entrance to the Pimai Historical Park leading to the sanctuary's west passage.

Gate to the main temple from the east entrance. Even though the complex is reminiscent of the Angkor Wat, one can visit the temple in less than an hour.

Columnar passage at the west side of the complex. There's nothing much to see here . The last passage is a cul de sac.

Still part of the west passage. I was kinda disappointed because there are no carvings unlike Cambodia's Phnom Bakheng which for me, is truly a feast in the eyes.

The gopura with the two lions guarding the entrance to the main shrine.

The Naga bridge, this feels like Angkor Wat all over again.

Outer walls and columns before entering the main shrine.

The main prang (pagoda) is located at the center made entirely of white sandstone. The pagoda is 28 meters high, has a square base, a portico and stairways and doors in all four directions. The temple is undergoing construction when we got there and as I saw the sign, looks like there's going to be a big event that particular night.

A closer look at the carvings (not as intricate as that of Angkor though).

The main shrine, Prang Brahmadat which is entirely made of white sandstone.

There are other pagodas, one of which is the Prang Hin Daeng to the left.

Another is the Ho Phram (Brahma Hall) located at the right side of the main shrine.

Inside the Bhrama Hall.

The park is open daily from 7.30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission fee costs 40 baht (around 60 pesos or $1.50). There are free brochures available at the ticket counter which they will provide to visitors. It has an extensive information about this historical sites.

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Mati City’s Modern Public Market

We were in Davao Oriental for a video production. We needed a market scene and chose the Mati Public Market which is strategically located in the town of Madang, City of Mati.

The newly-built modern public market of Mati City.

The facade of the Mati Market from another angle.

A woman in paratrooper army fatigues and a baby enjoying the morning sun at the market.

A child and his dad's favorite belt (?)

By car, you can reach Mati City in three hours or more from the city proper of Davao. The place has a nice sound to it. Mati sounds food to me (although it’s far from being like that) or a beautiful name which I have grown so familiar but cannot exactly know who and why. I kept saying, “Mati, Mati” the first time I set my foot on the city. I learned that the residents of Mati City are called “Matinians”.

It was only last year that Mati was declared a city. This year, along with the celebration of the city’s anniversary, President Macapagal-Arroyo together with the City Mayor innaugurated this modern public market. The newly-built facility is a single storey market built on 1.42 hectare lot that houses more than 600 stalls. The facility is worth P132.78 M and was funded under a loan from ADB.

The public market is the biggest in the province of Davao Oriental.

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In celebration of the Lenten Season...

Batac Church, Ilocos Norte, Philippines

...most people will be out on a break either to go out of town (or country) and enjoy the four-day holiday. My boss is in Cambodia right now, probably enjoying the mystifying beauty of Angkor Wat. Most people I know are some place else making the most out of the free time. I will just be in Laguna. How exciting! :-/

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SILVER PAGODA: A shimmering delight at the heart of the city

Still part of the Royal Palace is the Silver Pagoda which is another compound located at the north side, separated by a confined walkway. The site is actually referred to in Khmer as Wat Preah Keo Morokat (The Temple of the Emerald Buddha) but was commonly called as the “Silver Pagoda” due to the silver floor tiles that are ornately adorned in the temple building.

Sideview of the Wat Preah Keo with its well decorated false doors.

The compound offers another majestic experience starting from the beautiful landscape, the colorful garden, and the stunning, unique architecture of the temples, library, stupas, shrines, monuments, open halls, and galleries.

Beautiful orchids at the garden, with the shrine housing the statue of King Norodom at the back.

As we found our way to the compound, we found the primary building, the Wat Preah Keo which is also the royal temple. It houses many of the national treasures including gold and jeweled Buddha statues. Entering the temple we have to leave our shoes and slippers as a sign of respect. This time, I went inside and decided to linger for awhile. I assumed that it was forbidden to take photos inside so I didn’t bother taking some snapshots. I will just try to describe it. Hopefully you'll imagine me there.

The place is glimmering with gold, silver and jeweled displays. The floor is fully furnished with a red carpet that I decided to sit and then kneel (trying to mimic what the others were doing). It was a bit cold inside. It smelt of burning incense, mix of people's perfume and that distinct sweet, strange smell that I could not figure what. But I realized, I always smell it everytime I went inside the temples in Cambodia.

I saw some tourists bringing offers and praying to the big Buddha at the center. They call it “Buddha Maitreya” or Buddha of the Future. The 90-kg golden standing Buddha is covered with 2,086 diamonds including a 25 carat diamond in its crown and a 20 carat diamond entrenched in the chest. (I researched the stats here as I have no idea then how many they were). I literally fell on my knee just by looking at it. A shimmering delight. I’ve never seen such a shining beauty. I've seen the huge Golden Buddha in Bangkok, but this I think is far more beautiful.

I tried my luck and went over the center and knelt. I prayed too. No seriously, I did. I don't know why but the place was enticing. I prayed something like... “Dear Emerald Buddha, I don’t believe in you but I respect you like any belief or religion for that matter so please be kind enough to grant my wish…” Since I didn’t bring anything (flowers, fruits, etc) for my offering, I just dropped some Khmer money into the box.

Other displays include relics of Buddha, small gold and silver stupas, a collection of gifts, and contributions and gifts from other nobles and royalties.

This is the stupa built in memory of Princess Kantha Bopha, the daughter of former King Sihanouk who died at the age of four due to leukemia. This is one of the newest additions to the compound built only in the 60s. At the back is the Dhammasala.

After that, we toured around the compound and were mesmerized by the large stupas that sprang here and there. In plain sight, I found myself standing in front of the Stupa of Princess Kantha Bopha. Built only in 1960, this serves as a memorial sanctuary of the beloved daughter of the former King Sihanouk who died in1952 at the age of four due to leukemia.

Just behind this stupa is the Dhammasala, an open hall used for Buddhist monks to recite texts and also as a royal reception area.

We also saw the Stupa of King Ang Doung, which contains the ashes of the King Ang Doung (1845-1860), founder of the current dynasty and the great-great-great grandfather of King Sihamoni.

This is the stupa for King Ang Doung.

At the back of the main temple, we found the miniature model of the Angkor Wat. It was laid on a huge platform surrounded by a pond full of Japanese koi.

At the back of the main temple with the miniature Angkor Wat model at the platform.

Surrounding the platform are these huge Japanese koi.

Moving on, we found various souvenir shops selling all sorts of items including photocopied books on the historical sites in Cambodia and of course, the very cheap Lonely Planet books.

Every tourist site in Cambodia has souvenir shop, exactly like this one. With two large elephants guarding the door and a smaller one at the left (not seen).

One of the great treasures I take home with me are the warmth and friendliness of the Khmer people. They like to smile a lot. This little girl is really cute. The woman on the right could be her mom or grandma. I found them smiling at me while I was heading for the Preah Expo. The kiddo gave me a curious look :-)

At the tail end is the Preah Sihamoni’s Expo which exhibits the story of King Norodom Sihamoni including his childhood and how he became the king after his father Norodom Sihanouk. He was a cultural ambassador and a classical dance instructor.

Entrance of the Preah Sihamoni's Expo with two mythical guards in front and a bas relief on the right patterned from the original bas relief in Angkor Wat.

A woman monk looking through the photo exhibit of the King.

Inside the Preah Expo featuring ceramic dolls re-enacting a royal ritual.

After going through the winding and maze-like route of the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda, Oki and I went out of the compound, terribly exhausted but fulfilled. This was our last day in Cambodia and we were happy at how we came to fulfill our itinerary. We still have a lot of time to still go around the city but we opted to go back to our guesthouse and take enough rest.

At night we have to meet Toe over dinner. We don't know where and how but we were already agitated by the idea.

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Cambodia’s Royal Palace: Something Majestic!

“Once in a while I will witness a majestic place and say my ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ and remember it so well when I am old that once again I will travel through time and reminisce!”

~ Rayts talking to herself (after witnessing something 'majestic')~

Like a true kingdom, every activity in Phnom Penh circles around its Royal Palace, a complex of buildings which to this day, serves as the Cambodian home of King Norodom Sihamoni and former King Norodom Sihanouk. The royal palace, known in Khmer as Preah Barom Reachea Vaeng Chaktomuk was constructed over a century ago also to serve as a venue for the performance of court ceremonies and rituals and as a symbol of the Kingdom itself. The Royal Palace is located between Streets 240 and 18.

On our way to the gate of the Royal Palace at around one in the afternoon.

The lone guard in front of the palace.

We finished visiting the National Museum at around 1:00 pm, the Royal Palace would not be open until 2:00pm so we opted to walk the few miles. It was a bit windy but the heat was getting to us. We met a few tourists who were already at the gate of the palace, waiting for it to open. In Cambodia, where there are tourists, there are vendors. And they come in all ages and sorts.

While waiting, we’ve been passed by so many vendors selling hammocks, postcards, food, drinks, etc. Oki even befriended one of the young vendors. Meanwhile, I met two Singaporean women who were also waiting for the palace to open. They came to Phnom Penh on official business but stayed for more days to tour around the capital city.

The circuitous tale of the tourists and the vendors. "In Cambodia, where there are tourists, there are vendors".

At exactly 2pm, the gate of the palace opened and immediately we headed for the queue to get our entrance tickets. We paid $6.50 each (inclusive of camera or video cam). The lady at the booth repeated to me the amount (which was said in thick accent that I didn’t quite understand), she smiled and gave me two brochures about the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda.

The famous Chanchhaya Pavillon. This shot was taken in the morning, thus the beautiful sky. We've passed by this route three times. At night, the place is gorgeous! See previous post.

After passing through the narrow path on our way to the main complex, everything went on smoothly. Inside the brochures are route guides and history of the site. Some of the visitors brought tourist guides with them. Oki and I just went on with the flow of the people (we didn’t even follow the route).

Passing by a narrow path we were met by a bunch of bright yellow chrysanthemum all the way to the main complex. I was astounded by the beauty of the place. “Wow. This palace rocks!” Not only are the architecture amazing, the landscape is like a cutout from coffeetable books. The palace is surrounded by gardens with tropical flowers and plants. Really beautiful. Suddenly, I felt like I was brought into another place.

The first structure we came upon was the Pochani Pavillon. It is an open hall originally constructed as a classical dance theater. The pavilion, built in 1912, is currently used for Royal receptions and meetings. We watched people ascend into its wide and shiny stairs. There were monks everywhere. They suit the place so well especially with their tangerine robes. When we got to the top, we have to leave our slippers to enter.

The Pochani Pavillon with its beautiful garden.

Monks ascending the stairs, going inside the Pochani Pavillon.

At the top you'll find this sign: "Please shoes leave here"

Then there’s the Throne Hall, the primary audience hall of the King, used for coronations and diplomatic and other official meetings. This is said to be the second to be built in the complex. The first was built from wood under King Norodom. The present building was constructed in 1917 and inaugurated by King Sisowath in 1919. I had the nicest time taking photos of this particular structure. To me, it looks like a huge boat with all the flags playing with the wind.

The beautiful and majestic Throne Hall.

Like I said, monks were everywhere. Their robes stood out amongst the crowd and they always look good side by side the palace. Most of the monks we met were really friendly to us and most of them are like us, travelers. They were very kind to take photos with us.

Monks going to the Pochani Pavillon.

Could be them again? This time overlooking the Hor Samrith Phimean (Bronze Palace). This structure was built in 1917 as a repository for the royal regalia and attributes.

One interesting structure is the Napoleon III Pavilion. From afar, it looked so out of place. A European-style doll house amid the grand and distinctly Khmer-style buildings. The pavilion was actually the first permanent structure on the site of the Royal Palace. It was built for Empress Eugenie of France, the wife of Napoleon III, which served as the venue for the inauguration of the Suez Canal. It is built entirely from iron. In 1876 Emperor Napoleon III handed over the building to King Norodom of Cambodia as a gift. There is a royal emblem somewhere in the building. A letter “N” emblazed on the doors, which to no avail need not be altered. N = Napoleon; N = Norodom.

The out of place, Napoleon III Pavillon.

The Royal Palace is a majestic place and part of that is due to its beautiful landscape. Take the Damnak Chan for example. They have these beautiful-looking, miniature trees that really fascinated me. Damnak Chan currently houses the administrative offices of the Royal Palace and was originally constructed in 1953 for the High Council of the Throne. Damnak Chan displays a mix of Khmer and Western architectural styles.

Chrysanthemums surrounding the Pochani Pavillon.

Damnak Chan at the background with its famous pruned tree.

...up next is the Silver Pagoda (still part of the Royal Palace Complex) :-D

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National Museum: Cambodia's repository of cultural wealth

Museum serves as a memory bank of every nation.

It gives us a sense of history, a chance to go back and study what has been and why we, as a people, behave in a society we current live in. It also shows how one country is able to save and preserve that “sense of history”. I am sure no elaboration is needed. All of us know the importance of a national museum. And so are the Khmers.

Right after Wat Phnom, Oki and I had our lunch at Sarady restaurant, just adjacent the temple. We had no time to look for other restaurant to eat because I was already about to die of hunger. I had a huge glass of shake (I think it was lychee or soursop) and a plate of spicy chicken stir fry with rice (which I have been ordering and eating since I set foot in Cambodia).

Spicy chicken stir fry with swamp cabbage (kangkong) and a huge glass of shake courtesy of Sarady's. I love their chicken stir fry! One plate is good for two servings that I wasn't able to finish it.

Facade of Cambodia's National Museum. I was getting the shot from the other street on our way to the UNESCO office, which is almost adjacent to the Royal Palace.

After lunch, our rickshaw driver headed for the National Museum, a few walks away from the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda and the Sisowath Quay (riverfront). The structure known as the “red museum” is distinguishable from afar due to its reddish terracotta-roofed structure of traditional Cambodian design.

Cambodia’s National Museum was designed by George Groslier and the Ecole des Arts Cambodgiens. It was built in 1917 in traditional Khmer style (with French influence, of course) and was inaugurated in 1920 by King Sisowat himself. It houses the world's foremost collection of ancient Khmer archeological, religious, and artistic artifacts from the 4th to the 13th centuries. Inside the museum are over 5000 pieces of important artifacts and is the repository of the Kingdom's cultural wealth.

Front gate of the museum.

I am loving the sunstreaks here! :-D

Making the lion guard larger than life and the museum taller than usual.

Unfortunately, as we were about to pay our $2 entrance, we were informed that photography is forbidden inside the museum. We got there along with the other "eager" tourists who carried along with them their bulky DSLRs and got frustrated at the information booth. We weren't suprised at all. We knew there was a catch.

Well, actually it’s not really forbidden, because you could pay extra $3 for the photo op, which I went against. One, I hate paying and paying extra for that matter. Two, if they ask me to pay extra $3 and the proceed will go the maintenance of the museum, well and good but other than that, I wouldn’t pay. Or they could just ask $5 for the entrance fee. I am (quite) sure that every tourist who goes inside has a camera with them. Well, at least 80% chance that I am right and the rest 20% of the populace was just there for the viewing pleasure.

Ahh, I just love the designs and architecture of the Khmer. Fascinating to look out, lovely in my eyes.

Even the landscape is astonishing.

The place is well maintained. And because I stayed a bit long taking photos of the building outside, I had the chance to see and meet the gardener of the museum.

Anyway, I told the lady at the front that I won’t be taking photos but I need to bring my camera with me (cuz there is no way that I will leave it at the front desk). Good thing they allowed me, otherwise, I will not go inside.

I just enjoyed the long and winding tour inside the museum. One thing about not using your camera while touring is that, I get to enjoy looking at every artifact and piece of art with great enthusiam without minding the time or without being pressured if I have gotten enough photos. It also helped that we've visited the Angkor Wat in Siem Reap before we headed to the museum because I get to appreciate the displays a lot more (and the stories behind them).

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